Yellowstone
YELLOWSTONE
A mythical national park if ever there was one, Yellowstone, which has just celebrated its 150 years birthday, is best known for its bears and bisons, but is also the most beautiful place in the world to fly fish for trout.
It was in the summer of 1869 that a scientific expedition first gave a detailed description of the Yellowstone region. Less than three years later, on March 1, 1872, U.S. President Ulysses Grant signed an executive order creating Yellowstone National Park, the world’s first national park, as a place “free from commercial exploitation, dedicated to the satisfaction of the people ».
However, apart from the Crows, Blackfeets and Flatheads tribes who had been hunting, fishing and even living there for thousands of years, many white men, mainly French-Canadian trappers, had already described the wonders, or rather the geological and hydrological aberrations, of the Upper Missouri River Valley while following it in search of beavers for about a century.
They told of being lost in petrified forests, in the middle of fumaroles which came out under their feet, of hot springs which regularly “exploded” literally at several tens of meters high, and covering with their vacarm the petrified songs of birds themselves transformed into stones. But as most of these woodsmen, once back in “town”, spent most of their time in saloons and could not, after an hour’s drinking, tell the difference between a beaver trap and a bottle of bad whiskey, very few serious people paid the slightest attention to their stories…
John Colter was the first to cross what would become the Park.
In 1807-1808, however, an American trapper and “mountain man”, John Colter, crossed the northern part of the present Park and observed the geysers and the smell of sulfur that escaped from the bowels of the earth. He then had to fight the Blackfeet and escaped from his wounds only by miracle. And when, back to civilization, he told of the fumaroles, the shaking earth, the geysers, the petrified forests, his audience put these legends down to the delirium caused by his wounds. It was not until half a century later that another American “coureur des bois”, Jim Bridger, in 1857, returned from an expedition in the same area, and told of having seen boiling springs, gushing water, and a canyon whose stone walls were yellow (Yellowstone) and so deep that before falling asleep, he yelled “Get up Jim” to be sure that the echo would wake him up the next morning.
As he was also a bit of a drinker, and known for his affabulations, no one paid too much attention to his abracadabrous stories. Except that for those people who had never met, French-Canadian trappers in the 18th century, John Colter in 1807, Jim Bridger fifty years later, the same descriptions of hot springs, fumaroles and “geysers” made for a lot of hydrogeological coincidences. In 1859, an American geologist, Dr. Hayden, mounted the first scientific expedition to study the upper Missouri River, with Bridger as guide. The group approached Yellowstone but was unable to reach it because of heavy snowfall. The following year, the start of the Civil War interrupted the research for 10 years.
On March 1, 1872, U.S. President Ulysses Grant signed the executive order creating the Park.
Here we are again in 1870/71 when Hayden finally wrote the first complete scientific report on Yellowstone, illustrated with photographs, which prompted the U.S. Congress to protect the area and President Grant to sign the first executive order creating a National Park. Today, the Park is open year-round, attracting millions of tourists from around the world.
In July and August, it is better to avoid going there, because you will see more campers than bison, but from Labor Day, the first Monday of September, the park is empty of American tourists, and if you are a fly fisherman, you will have until the beginning of October and the first snowfalls (we are at an altitude of more than 2,000 meters), to fully enjoy the most beautiful trout rivers, anywhere in the world.